DILI, TIMOR-LESTE — In the heart of Timor-Leste, where the scent of incense mingles with the tropical breeze, a familiar ritual unfolded just before the arrival of a monumental event. As is tradition in this young Southeast Asian nation, a prayer was offered, invoking blessings and protection. But minutes after this spiritual pause, the serenity of Tasitolu was shattered. Bulldozers roared into action, and in a matter of moments, the homes of many Tasitolu residents were reduced to rubble.
Ana Bela da Cruz stood in stunned silence as her home was demolished, her voice trembling with a mix of sorrow and frustration. “I’m very sad,” she told Time Africa, her grief palpable as she surveyed the destruction. “They gave us such short notice, and now they’ve come in and destroyed our homes.”

A Grand Event with Complications
Tasitolu, a suburb situated just a 15-minute drive from Dili, Timor-Leste’s bustling capital, is set to host a significant event: an outdoor mass led by Pope Francis. This mass is not only a spiritual gathering but also the culmination of the Pope’s three-country tour, which includes stops in Indonesia and Papua New Guinea. The Pope’s visit, which marks a historic moment for Timor-Leste, has been touted as the largest event since the country’s independence in 2002.
The significance of the Pope’s visit cannot be overstated. Timor-Leste, with a population of approximately 1.3 million, is one of the most devout Catholic nations outside the Vatican, with about 95 percent of its population identifying as Catholic. The anticipation surrounding the Pope’s visit has generated immense excitement, but it has also cast a spotlight on deeper issues within the country.

The Eviction Dilemma
The government’s decision to clear the area of Tasitolu to accommodate an expected influx of up to 700,000 people for the Pope’s mass has stirred controversy. The authorities argue that the homes demolished were illegally constructed on protected wetland areas. “They must leave this area,” said Germano Dias, Timor-Leste’s Secretary of Urban Planning, on the first day of the forced evictions. “It is part of a protected area. They have to go back to their home villages.”
The eviction has been particularly painful for the residents who have lived in Tasitolu for years. Andre Bere, another affected resident, expressed his dismay to ABC News, “We are devastated we have to leave. Our children are still at the local school. What impact will this have on our children?”
The forced evictions have been carried out under the guise of legal and environmental necessity, but many locals believe the timing is too coincidental with the Pope’s visit. Residents claim they were only informed of the evictions after the visit was announced, adding a layer of resentment to their displacement.

Public Sentiment and Financial Controversy
While the government insists that the Pope’s visit is a separate matter from the evictions, the two issues are intertwined in public discourse. The government has allocated a substantial budget of $18 million for the Pope’s visit, which includes $1.5 million for a custom-built altar designed by a Vatican engineer. Efforts are underway to enhance the city’s appearance with new roads and clean-up initiatives.
However, the financial outlay has not been without criticism. In a country where 40 percent of the population lives below the poverty line, the expenditure has raised eyebrows. Valentim Pinto, director of the nation-building group FONGTIL, questioned the prioritization of funds, stating, “It’s not right. [$18 million]? This is a lot of money. All this for three days?”
Despite these concerns, social media sentiment in Dili reflects a generally positive view of the visit’s impact on the city’s cleanliness and order. “There’s a saying going around: ‘We wish the Pope would visit every year because the city has never looked so clean,’” said one local resident.
The Church’s Perspective
Father Luzerio Martins Da Silva, the church’s representative for the Pope’s visit, views the event through a lens of celebration and spiritual significance. He acknowledges the historical context of the visit, recalling Pope John Paul II’s visit in 1989 and its impact on Timor-Leste’s quest for independence.
Father Da Silva sympathizes with the affected families but emphasizes that the government’s actions are in line with legal requirements. “The government is following the rule of law,” he said. As for the budget, he pointed out that the financial decisions were made by the government, not the church.

A Community in Transition
Back in Tasitolu, as the bulldozers continue their work and the community is gradually dismantled, the displaced residents are left grappling with the repercussions. Ana Bela da Cruz’s simple yet profound question encapsulates the anxiety of many: “The children are traumatised. They just want to go to school. Where will they go?”
As Timor-Leste prepares for the Pope’s historic visit, the country finds itself at a crossroads. The juxtaposition of spiritual celebration and socio-economic upheaval presents a complex narrative, reflecting both the fervent faith of a nation and the challenging realities faced by its people.
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